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Epaulet by Southwick
Dartmouth Unstructured Sportcoat Navy Hopsack


We're thrilled to present the Dartmouth sportcoat, our premier American made unstructured blazer.  Made for Michael Kuhle of Epaulet by Southwick Clothiers, the Dartmouth imparts classic style, a handsome unstructured shoulder, quality workmanship and understated elegance. This piece represents our favorite elements of soft neapolitan tailoring, executed flawlessly right here in the U.S.

The Dartmouth's basic features include, half canvassed construction, quarter lining (shoulders and sleeves only), smoke mother of pearl buttons, dual rear vents, 3.25" notch lapels, flapped hip pockets, a barchetta chest pocket and a purple felt undercollar.

Every man needs a navy blazer in his wardrobe. We designed the Dartmouth to be a versatile, modern take on that classic staple. The fit is slim and superb. The fabric is a gorgeous hopsack weave that's soft, breathable, textured and long wearing.  The quarter lining makes it a true year-round piece. It's breathable in warm weather and easy to layer in the cold. It packs well, travels brilliantly and matches nearly everything. Even if you own a dozen navy blazers, or if you've never owned one in your life, this will be one of your most beloved and frequently worn items. 
"Southwick for Michael Kuhle" 
Designed by Michael Kuhle, this capsule collection of jackets is hand-crafted in the United States in gorgeous European fabrics. These jackets match our signature "slim but not skinny" silhouette and offer superb quality, classic style, and long-lasting durability at a very fair price.

Quarter lined
The Dartmouth sportcoat is lined in the sleeves and the top of the shoulders only. This was chosen for three practical reasons. First, by leaving the body unlined, the jacket is comfortable to wear in warmer weather. Second, when the piece is folded, there is no liner to crease against the body fabric, which helps to avoid wrinkling when it's packed. And third, maintaining a liner in the sleeves means that it slips on and off easily - as unlined sleeves tend to catch on your shirt.

Half-Canvassed Construction
Traditionally, men’s suits were constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas underneath a wool fabric shell. The canvas holds the shape of the suit and keeps it from sagging or deforming, serving as a foundation. The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape, and then the wool is stitched or glued to the canvas. In a half-canvassed jacket, the key areas, i.e. the lapels, shoulders and chest are hand-stitched, which allows them to move and shape around your body. This gives the jacket a proper drape and lapel roll as you walk, sit, and even dance. Or, as Southwick themselves so eloquently put it: “your clothing should look like you, not us.” Proper half-canvassing also insures that your jacket maintains its shape and sharp lapels through repeated wear and cleaning. 

A bit of Southwick History
Mention the name “Southwick” and traditionalists nod in recognition: “authentic American style”, “natural shoulder comfort”, quality and fine fabrics”. Since 1929 Southwick has been dressing discerning customers who appreciate Southwick’s trademark of understated elegance and quality workmanship.

Nicholas and Vito Grieco immigrated to this country from a remote Italian village in the early 1900’s. Hard working and ambitious, they ran a suit-pressing business in Brooklyn, then a successful tailor shop in New York until the outbreak of World War I forced them to close.

Undaunted, they opened a suit business in Massachusetts where they honed their skills as master tailors and experimented with mass production techniques. When that business folded, they worked for another manufacturer until their entrepreneurial zeal propelled them to found Grieco Bros. in Lawrence, Massachusetts in 1929.

Their custom made suits embodied a fundamentally British attitude toward clothing; the natural shoulder philosophy. This style; with its simpler, cleaner lines has become a time-honored classic. Customers turn to Southwick not just because the look is right, but also because the craftsmanship provides enduring value.

Measurements & Sizing
Note: All measurements are shown in inches. "Chest" is measured from one armpit seam to the other. "Sleeves" is measured from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff. "Shoulder" is measured from one shoulder seam to the other. "Length" is measured from the base of the rear collar to the bottom of the garment.

Sizing on the Dartmouth sportcoat is true to size and generally consistent with our in-house Epaulet shirts. The size chart below illustrates how they match up. This is an approximation, as tailored clothing can't be cut identically to shirting. Generally, most customers who wear an Epaulet medium will get a solid fit in a 38 jacket. However, if your Epaulet shirt fits you very slim, or you have broad shoulders for your build, then we recommend ordering the next size up. The fit in the shoulders is crucial - the chest and body can easily be taken in if need be.

Please note that each jacket has approximately 1 inch of seam allowance in the sleeves that can be let out, and 1 inch of seam allowance in the chest and body. Many customers will find this to have a great fit "off the rack." However, it's common for a proper sportcoat to require a little bit of tailoring to fit exactly right. This is a solid item and you'll find that quality tailoring is worth the investment.

+ Measurements



(point to point)

36 19.5" 17" 24.75" 28.25" SMALL
20" 17.5" 24.87" 28.5" MEDIUM
40 21" 18" 25" 28.75" LARGE
42 21.5" 18.5" 25.12" 29" XLARGE